2023’s Best Collaborations and Supper Clubs
These Collabs and Supper Clubs are the blueprint
Two down, two to go. You gorged on the best eats in the UAE and the best eats abroad this year. Now, we turn our minds to the fringes, those a little left of centre. Are they left of centre? Collabs and Supper Clubs firmly took root in Dubai; let’s call it 2021. Some maligned them as a post-pandemic reaction. Restaurants mostly sneered at Supper Clubs. Fast-forward to the twilight of 2023, both Collaborations and Supper Clubs are here to stay.
What makes for a good…
What makes for a good Supper Club? Any dining experience starts with the food. That’s 50% off the bat. In my experience, this factor varies more for Supper Clubs than Collaborations. Too often, I begrudgingly swallowed a mouthful of some Supper Club hosts misfired ambitions. A branded apron and an Instagram account a decent cook does not make. I judge a doctor based on their medical competency; their stunning bedside manner will not forgive misdiagnosis or malpractice. The same is true of supper clubs. The host’s hospitality, the ambience, the presence of a pet, a Spotify list, a fish bowl of questions printed on fortune cookie slips, the concept’s originality and, of course, the price point all inform the rest. Still, they are not a balm for a meal, punching for average at best.
What makes for a good Collaboration? The central prominence of food is repeated, especially as collaborations are more or less exclusively between fellow restaurants and actual chefs. The best collaborations will either excel in weaving the symmetry of style between the host and the guest or play with an intentional (but well-calibrated) juxtaposition. I look for the stature and profile of the host and the guest and ask how unique this collaboration is (e.g. does the guest chef rarely collaborate or is their restaurant hard to get into?). What’s the menu’s flow? Are the host/guest presenting dishes unique to the collaboration, i.e. not just serving their best of (although, don’t get me wrong, signature dishes from the guest are encouraged)? The best collaborations have a sense of fun about them.
With all that said, let’s kick off the list!
2023’s Best Collaborations
BOCA’s 7 Chefs: BOCA hosted seven events featuring seven female chefs serving a special menu from BOCA’s kitchen. What a unique, marvellous initiative to showcase and unfold the UAE’s strong women-led culinary talent. I ventured off into the night to enjoy three of the seven. Célia Stoecklin (now of Fi’lia- a place where I am looking forward to lunching with her new menu) presented a light, somewhat classic menu. Penelope Diaz of Fusion Ceviche (one of 2023’s best restaurants) dispatched heaped Peruvian plates of ceviche and seafood rice while swirling the dining room and chatting with diners. The incomparable Gabriela from Girl and the Goose was my favourite of the three. Her unique voice on Meso-American cuisine in Dubai continues to delight and outstretch others in Dubai’s dining scene - all from a Supper Club. As usual, BOCA’s service team, impressive wine list and the even more impressive Omar Shihab were the backdrop to allow these ladies to shine. Bravo.
Ossiano x Jordnær. Two chefs whose styles came together like a zip. Jordnær wields seafood between its fingers and - much like the Frantzen collab at Ossiano the year before - the symmetry between the charismatic Chef Gregoire (of Ossiano) and the larger-than-life Chef Eric Vildgaard (of Jordnær). Beautiful plates of just cooked pudgy langoustine in yuzu kosho or white asparagus with pine grapefruit and Brittany lobster, with courses layered liberally with pops of lovely caviar. If there’s seafood and a dill sauce, you’ll find me loitering with intent.
Ossiano x El Cellar de Can Roca. This was one of the “big guns” collabs where I am not confident I will ever get to eat in the guest’s restaurant (but I am manifesting this universe if you are listening). Hence, the collaboration was a priority to attend. It never disappointed me—11 courses between Chef Gregoire and the iconic Chef Joan Roca. A pale dish of scallops, white corn and frozen leche de tigre blew us away with its serene presentation and layering flavours. I enjoyed the barbecued abalone so much that there’s footage of me licking the plate in the restaurant. Sommelier Tom Domingues stepped up with some lovely pairings, including a Sancerre. Mersault and Pedro Ximenez, among others. These last two collaborations underscore Ossiano and Chef Gregoire’s stature in the international dining community, where both firmly deserve their 2023 accolades (World’s 50 Best, MENA 50 Best, Best Chef, Michelin Guide). You can’t help but think there’s more on the horizon for both. I wait greedily.
TakaHisa x Maido. A late entrance into 2023, but one that saw the year out with style and aplomb. Already well-covered here, this collaboration invited one of the world’s hottest chefs right now, Mitsuharu Maido, who left this collaboration, boarded a plane and flew back to Latin America, where he ascended a stage to claim the number one spot on LATAM’s 50 Best List. TakaHisa, as Courtney Brandt intonated, seems certain to claim a star in the next Dubai Michelin Guide. The fun, bar-style omakase setting laid before three chefs made for an engaging and delicious evening with plenty of chilled Pommard to go around.
Tresind Studio x Belcanto. There were many collaborations at Tresind Studio this year, but this is the one that stood out to me above the rest (also covered here). Visiting chef Jose Avillez is no stranger to Dubai with his one Michelin-starred restaurant, Tasca, at the Mandarin Oriental in Jumeirah. However, he is most well-known for his double Michelin-starred restaurant Belcanto in Lisbon — a restaurant that escaped my grasp on more than one occasion (thank you, COVID). Two highly capable chefs are put through their paces to stretch and match each other. Jose’s dishes reinforced my wish to go to Belcanto with his elevated take on Portuguese dining, such as sardines with aubergine, a beetroot tartare with herbaceous pine nut milk and the reimagined duck rice with ashes of rosemary. As usual, Himanshu Saini leaned into the opportunity of a new menu with a scallop wellington - but the staggeringly good crab cafreal with ros omelette stood out from his dishes.
2023’s Best Supper Clubs
Eye Heart Rabbit. Put simply, Eye Heart Rabbit, Girl and the Goose, and the one below are the best supper clubs I’ve been to in Dubai thus far. Fans of Lowe will be familiar with chef Jesse Blake, whose food I cannot help but love for its depth of flavour and restrained, elegant presentation (read a review here in FACT by me). Eye Heart Rabbit’s setting in a long, green back garden with a large communal table relaxes guests as bowls of Jesse’s creations emerge. Contrasting morsels of honey melon lawned with smooth feta are spiked with woody, brightening zaatar. A duck musakhan roll lyses with spiced, plump shredded duck dredged through a mouth-puckering sour walnut ketchup sharpened by pomegranates. Jesse’s fingerprints walk all over this menu, and it’s all the better for it.
Moreish by K. Kunwal is the special K in Moreish by K. Her prodigious rise in 2023 saw her stretch her brand abroad. Dubbed the Samosa Queen, Moreish by K is rooted in her supper club. A beautiful, art-forward home and bar counter seating set the stage for a casual supper club by someone with a sixth sense for spicing. This is her second year in a row on one of my Best of Lists. Punjabi leaning, her food meanders into Persian and Mediterranean ingredients (see video here). A bowl of warm buttered orzo frappes with a mutton kebab and mint chutney follows a butter chicken samosa with mango chutney. She’s strong and one to follow.
We were very lucky diners in Dubai this year! Not only from "old" talent, but lots of official new talent popping up all over. I'm super optimistic for 2024.