Grégoire, au revoir et bonne chance
Three food writers pen a personal statement to Chef Grégoire Berger, one of the city’s best chefs, by highlighting some their most delicious memories.
If you’re into fine dining, you’ve most likely heard of Chef Grégoire Berger, and his influence on the UAE’s culinary scene. He transformed Ossiano into a Michelin-starred gem, rated one of the best restaurants in the Middle East. Now, as he prepares to embark on a new culinary journey, we celebrate the incredible dining experiences we’ve had at Ossiano with a trip down memory lane.
Liam said…
Grégoire’s reputation preceded him: his technical ability, his storytelling and, of course, his venue. Let’s be honest; one could sell fridge-cold gas station sandwiches at Ossiano, and both the aquarium and Atlantis’ footfall would keep the lights on.
But, Grégoire Berger was restless and hardly apathetic. A man on a mission was the word around town. He toiled to articulate fine dining in Dubai.
I saw this during the Metanoia menu: his audacious return to Ossiano after some time out. An ode to the Brittany of his childhood. A statement of intent.
He sat with my wife and me for an hour after dinner (maybe longer). We chatted about Metanoia, dining, Dubai, and putting his hand back on the rudder. Two people who, until that point, had only heard about each other slipped naturally into shared passions about all things delicious.
Grégoire's passion is palpable.
Our dialogue continues as the years pass. His boundless curiosity and versatility impress me beyond words. His curated beauty parade of who’s who guest collaborations are submitted for the jury’s consideration.
Who could compete?
Very few would go toe-to-toe with some of the world’s best chefs in their realm, on their turf and outside Grégoire’s comfort zone. Frankly, fewer would try. Only a clutch would succeed.
Over the years, Grégoire repeated that life begins outside your comfort zone. Chef, with love, I wish you truly bracing discomfort. I hope the best of your professional life begins now. But first, a break—like a long, long break.
Merci beaucoup chef.
Metanoia: Brittany Brown Crab | Kari Gosse | Bouillabaisse Essence
The Brown Crab told me everything I needed about Gregoire as a chef. A deft touch with a delicate protein that both buttressed and spoke loudly through a phalanx of spices. The crab’s shells are repurposed into a delicate lattice. Complex, layered, skilled and personal. A dish that wove together Brittany and Morocco, his wife’s home country–a theme I saw in successive menus.
Puyol x Ossiano: “Back to the Roots”
Puyol is a widely-regarded contemporary Mexican restaurant, so pulling in this calibre of visiting chef set the scene and the tone for future collaborations, including El Celler de Can Roca, Jordnaer and more. This dish exemplifies Gregoire’s ability to navigate the waters of other cuisines. It’s an onion, hollowed and filled with sweet Brittany langoustine, a blanket of Sarraceno sabayon, apple and white truffle. The depth and playfulness set the tone. It was the perfect way to ring in my forties. (I came here for my fortieth birthday.)
Anchored: Moqueca
I will accept protestations of recency bias. It was a close call between this and Metanoia’s jellyfish course, but what clinched it is this Moqueca-inspo completes Grégoire’s arch over the past 3 years. His cooking–at its best–is clever, comforting and emotive. He does comfort food very well. His Moqueca looks outwards and re-articulates the world around him. This suave seafood broth ripples with spice and makes soothing, delicious use of langoustine trimmings. It’s a bowl in which to slowly slip a spoon out of fear it will all end.
Courtney said…
Salmon and Plankton Sphere
As Chef Grégoire reminds me every time I mention how much I love this particular dish (spoiler alert: it’s every time I have it), it’s that this lovely little bite wouldn’t exist without me. And yes, whether or not this particular humble brag is true, it’s one of the many reasons I love this perfect little sphere. Created for a caviar collab that tied into some work I did with DET in early 2023, I wasn’t expecting a perfect sphere of cold cream with an interior of smoky salmon and caviar bursting with umami. Topped at the table with a rich sauce, the presentation is a final moment for the team to connect with guests. Overall, it’s a gorgeous, innovative dish full of technical expertise – two things I always recognize from the Berger-led Ossiano kitchen.
Foie Gras Candle
From the above, I think you can understand I like a bit of elevated presentation, oui? When this dish was first presented, I fell in love with the magical moment as much as the ultra-luxurious taste. I’m not sure if it’s the backdrop of the aquarium, the panache in which the dish is served, or the unctuousness of all the ingredients coming together. However, in thinking back to the many dishes I’ve tried at Ossiano, this course has always stood out to me. There is just the right amount of enchantment in how it all comes seamlessly together in a truly unique (and delicious) way.
“Olives”
Fact: the only chef in the world who has ever made me like olives is Chef Grégoire Berger. And while I realize these aren’t traditional olives, it’s the commitment to making them look so much like real olives that I forever think I will bite into a flavor I don’t prefer… Until I don’t, and it’s a beautiful, sweet, and balanced crunch. The dish evolved somewhat from its original form, and I think its final version – with all the gorgeous accouterment at the table truly sold the dish. I hope that wherever Chef goes next he takes this special transitional dish with him.
The Late Night (honorable mention)
While the meal inevitably ends with gorgeous petit fours (which I am almost always too full to truly enjoy), I will miss most late-night conversations. Imagine my delight on my last visit when I saw the lights wink out in the adjacent tank. The late-night chats are why I’ll never schedule anything the day after a visit to Ossiano. Industry, life, and everything in between – it’s always been a memorable experience.
Thank you, Chefs Grégoire, Aurélien, Robin, and others, for hosting so many delicious evenings. I am forever lucky to be your guest.
Pallavi said…
Croque Monsieur
The hands of the clock turned backwards on the plate as I savoured this nostalgic masterpiece by Chef Grégoire. His take on the croque monsieur, elevated with truffle, was more than comforting... It felt like a warm embrace. Somehow, it evoked a longing for a time I’ve never actually lived, the kind of nostalgia that wraps around you like a familiar memory. A dish that effortlessly bridged familiarity and refinement, it was pure magic from Ossiano’s kitchen.
Som Tam (Ossiano x Potong Collab)
This was the dish where Chef Grégoire proved he truly knows his way around spices. His interpretation of Som Tam, the classic Thai papaya salad, was a revelation – vibrant, dynamic, and packed with layers of flavour. The addition of unexpected textures, including a sorbet, turned it into something memorable. The collaboration with Potong (and many others) showcased Chef Grégoire's unparalleled ability to adapt and innovate alongside visiting chefs, making each partnership truly unique.
Sphere of Salmon and Caviar with Plankton
This dish encapsulates everything Chef Grégoire excels at, precise techniques, bold flavours, and the element of surprise. The delicate sphere of salmon and caviar, paired with the depth of a plankton sauce, was a sensory delight. Art and finesse on a plate!
Favourite Collaboration
Chef Natsuko Shoji from Été and Chef Grégoire Berger
This collaboration stands out as one of the most harmonious I’ve ever experienced. Chef Grégoire seamlessly integrated Chef Natsuko’s techniques into a menu that felt like a singular, cohesive vision. The flow was impeccable, with no clear line between one chef’s contribution and the other’s. It was a true meeting of minds and talents. A special mention goes to Chef Natsuko’s mille-feuille—a masterpiece of delicate, intricate layers that was as beautiful as it was delicious.
I look forward to what Chef Berger brings to the table next (although Ossiano feels inseparable from the magic he brings to it). Merci for the unforgettable evenings, Chefs Grégoire, Aurélien, Robin and team!
If you enjoyed reading this, you can find Pallavi Sangtani on Substack or Instagram.
Liam Collens is also on Substack, where he publishes restaurant and travel reviews. He runs EatGoSee and can be found via itsliamcollens on Instagram, Threads and Bluesky.
Courtney Brandt publishes the Weekly A to Z on Substack with restaurant reviews for paid subscribers or find Courtney on Instagram.
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Only managed to attend anchorage. I loved the kokotxas of black cod and the grilled squid. What was surprising was he had time for everyone who stuck around long enough to closing time. I suppose like Steve Waugh once said - bow out when there’s people asking why now. Wish the legend all the best.