Michelin Guide Dubai 2024
The Starry Guide's Third Chapter shows growth and promise, with (most) wrongs righted.
Deep within a ground-floor ballroom of the still shiny and new One&Only One Za’abeel, Dubai’s culinary cognoscenti amassed to see who among them would go up, go in or maybe go out of Dubai’s third Michelin Guide.
We three were present at the ceremony to witness people ascend the stairs and collect their awards.
Like any big event, there were rumours, rampant speculation, concerns and predictions in the run-up to the Big Night. But before we get into the highlights and lowlights, here’s a quick summary of the Michelin Guide: what it is, its rankings and the winners.
What is the Michelin Guide?
Chances are readers already know, but the Michelin Guide was launched in 1900 as a guide by the Michelin tyre company to signpost restaurants worthy of French travellers traversing by car.
To this day, the famed Michelin Star system maintains a traveller’s language:
⭐️: A restaurant with one Michelin star is considered very good in its category. This indicates high-quality cuisine prepared to a consistently high standard.
⭐️ ⭐️ : A restaurant with two Michelin stars is excellent and worth a detour. It signifies exceptional cuisine, skillfully and carefully crafted dishes, often using high-quality ingredients.
⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ : A restaurant with three Michelin stars is exceptional and worth a special journey. This is the highest accolade a restaurant can achieve in the Michelin Guide. It indicates exceptional cuisine, distinctive dishes, and impeccable technique. Dining at a three-star restaurant is considered a unique and unforgettable experience.
Michelin added new categories over the decades and (mercifully) removed some.
Bib Gourmand: A Bib Gourmand is a distinction awarded to restaurants that offer good-quality, affordable food. It focuses on a restaurant’s value for money. We often find that bib gourmands also lean towards local cuisine and homegrown restaurants, which we also tend to prioritise when travelling abroad.
Green Michelin Star: This award recognises restaurants for their sustainable practices and efforts toward environmental responsibility. It is a ‘top-up’ award that goes to a restaurant with one of the other awards (e.g., star, bib, selected).
Selected: These commendable restaurants are featured in the Michelin Guide but do not rise to the level of a star and may not offer the affordability of a Bib Gourmand.
How are these restaurants assessed?
Inspectors visit restaurants unannounced and anonymously to assess each restaurant against specific criteria. The assessment process is famously (and proudly) shrouded in mystery. Michelin claims they only rate the food, but we strongly doubt this is true, not least of all based on the public feedback from the inspectors.
The inspectors rate the following in Michelin’s own words:
The quality of ingredients;
The mastery of culinary techniques;
The harmony of flavours;
The personality and emotion that the chef conveys in the dishes; and
Consistency throughout the entire menu and across different visits.
And now to 2024’s Michelin Guide Dubai
Three restaurants fell from Bib status vs the 2023 Guide (Brasserie Boulud, Filia and Ninive), while one “closed” (folly). One restaurant went up in ranking (Orfali), and a few entered the Guide for the first time, including a very prestigious new two-star, Row on 45 (read Courtney’s review here and Liam’s here.) Here’s a rundown:
The Night’s Winners
⭐️ ⭐️ Two Michelin Stars (4 restaurants): Il Ristorante - Niko Romito, Stay by Yannick Alléno and Tresind Studio (one of our firm Dubai favourites).
New: ROW on 45.
⭐️ One Michelin Star (15 restaurants): 11 Woodfire, Al Muntaha, Armani Ristorante, Avatara (a fav), Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (another fav), Hakkasan, Hoseki (fav), Moonrise (majority fav), Ossiano (fav!), Tasca by José Avillez and Torno Subito.
New One Stars: Smoked Room, Sagetsu by Tetsuya, La Dame De Pic Dubai and Orfali Bros (local darling).
☘️ Green Stars (3 restaurants): Boca, Lowe, Teible — all favs.
📕 Bib Gourmand (18 restaurants): 21 grams, 3 Fils, Aamara, Al Khayma Heritage Restaurant, Bait Maryam, Goldfish, Ibn Al Bahr, Indya by Vineet, Kinoya, Reif Japanese Kushkyaki, Shabestan and Teible.
New Bibs: Berenjak, DUO Gastrobar, Hoe Lee Kow, Konjiki Hototogisu, REIF Japanese Kushiyaki Dubai Hills and Revelry.
Dubai also has 69 ‘selected’ restaurants, including some of the city’s most popular restaurants, such as Zuma.
Special Awards are issued with the Guide (another Michelin development). Here are the Special Award winners: New Opening: The Guild; Service Award: DuangDy by Bo.Lan; Sommelier Award: Michael Mpofu (Celebrities by Mauro Colagreco); Young Chef Award: Jesus Lobato Suarez (Smoked Room).
The Highlights
From Pallavi
The new One&Only One Za'abeel was a fantastic host to this year's celebrations, and it was lovely to see the Bib Gourmands finally get their moment in the sun (historically, they haven’t been invited on stage). Personal favourite Revelry, an Indian tapas bar by a very talented team, joined the Bibs this year. It was inspirational to see Orfali Bros Bistro, Dubai's darling (And #1 on MENA's 50 Best list), move from a Bib Gourmand to a 1 Star. A great motivation for any restaurant and chef to work harder, push boundaries, and showcase high-level cooking, proving the stars are within reach! This transformation, from Syrian roots to a global bistro, embodies the spirit of Dubai itself. Finally, ROW on 45 by Chef Jason Atherton joined the list with a banging 2 stars, less than a year into opening. Everyone could FEEL the emotions with Chef Jason's speech as he finally accepted that 2-star trophy after 35 years of cooking.
From Courtney
First and foremost, for the organization, this felt like the first year the ceremony matched the city and industry – having everyone in the room (I’m looking at you, Bib Gourmands) made the evening extra special. I think the crowd spoke to our favorites – both Orfali Bros and Row on 45 received massive cheering when their respective stars were announced, and I couldn’t be happier for the teams and their recognition. Witnessing Chef Jason’s genuine emotion was a powerful moment and an excellent reminder of what this award means to chefs and their teams. Everyone’s favorite “chef’s chef” Reif Othman, was well recognized, and it’s been wonderful to see his commitment and consistency in the industry pay off.
Additionally, and worth mentioning, the rise in stars, Bib Gourmands, and collection within the guide showcases what a thriving F&B industry we have in Dubai. Perhaps more so than any other city, it’s a unique, eclectic, and talented mix of international chefs and locally developed concepts.
From Liam
Bibs honoured, deservingly. Well done, Michelin, for inviting these bastions of everyday dining so they can ascend the stage to adulation. ICYMI, the Bibs were FYI’d their confirmations last year and were not invited to the awards. For shame.
Reif Othman as a BIG winner. Reif Othman is a champion of Dubai’s dining scene, whether it’s consulting, collaborations or years of building not only his restaurants but others. He walked away with three Bibs (Reif Kushiyaki x 2, Hoe Lee Kow) and one Selected (TERO).
DUO Gastrobar!--and Dubai Hills. I called this one. It’s well-deserved. A quintessential Bib Gourmand restaurant. Form an orderly queue. Also, Dubai Hills is the new DIFC, with stars and bibs. Yay for us residents!
The Mix. We can always quibble about whether this restaurant should have X or Y (and we do), but overall, there is a palpable maturing of the Guide this year, and more people are getting their just dues.
The Mood. I walked away directionally more positive and proud than in previous years. Like Courtney said, it’s a list that speaks to the maturity of the Dubai dining market. There’s room to go (see below). It could be worse. It could be Abu Dhabi…
Hoor Al Khaja. The best speaker of the night by a nautical mile. In the five or so minutes she spent on stage, she impressed me with her nuance and passion. I was proud to live in a country that has women like her in leadership (and Pallavi agrees!).
Jason Atherton. A well-known figure in both British and Dubai dining–well into the fourth decade of his career–breaks down in front of an audience of the Good and the Great. In that moment, he personifies graft, passion and the tangible gratitude of what it means to hold a lifetime achievement in his hands. ROW on 45 is Jason’s first 2-star restaurant after 35 years. My own (aged) feelings about the restaurant aside, I couldn’t help but be moved deeply and I shared the same with him after the ceremony. Well done, Jason.
The Lowlights
From Courtney
I know I’m not alone in finding massive disappointment that Takahisa was not recognized with a star this year. The team consistently puts up memorable meals with ingredients only found at their restaurant. Where other restaurants might miss a beat with collaborations, the Takahisa team seamlessly works with distinguished out-of-town chefs. Also, I might be controversial here, but I’m a bit surprised The Guild received the Opening of the Year award. Having heard of numerous teething issues at the launch, I think Row on 45, or one of the One & Only One Za’abeel restaurants, should have taken home this award. You might feel differently. Finally, I’m not saying I want to see any stars taken away, but I think consistency in the 1-star cohort ranges (wildly). To Liam’s point about representation below (he says it better than I could), I hope next year we see (finally) an Emirati restaurant on this list. Gerbou, we’re waiting for your arrival!
Finally, like last year’s Abu Dhabi event, I’m still unsure why Michelin doesn’t choose to send someone senior to have in attendance. In my mind, any of these events are a massive night (and opportunity) for the brand and the client (in this case, DET). Personally, I would choose to be present and celebrate in person rather than send another pre-recorded message.
From Liam
Consistency. Not only is it a sword on which a restaurant may live or die; it is one of Michelin’s pillars. I am not clear HOW The Link’s restaurants can be safely assessed on consistency within a five-month window. (The Link opened in February 2024.) I will concede I’ve not visited any of those restaurants, but the point stands.
TakaHisa was slighted. I echo Courtney’s comments. Moreover, having eaten at both restaurants, the food is comparable at Hoseki (1 star) and Takahisa, although the dining experience is quite different. I can only speculate as to why Takahisa continues to be snubbed.
Attendees. I was super proud to attend and I am extremely grateful for the invite. I do look around and wonder why certain people are invited, how people get invited, etc. Michelin/DET/PRs, if you’re reading, please subscribe and share; second, hit me up if you’d like to know who was left out.
Speakers. Listen, get speakers like Hoor Al Khaja. I’ll leave it there.
Middle Eastern representation. So few Middle Eastern restaurants are in the Guide. Sure, Orfali went up. Bait Maryam is there—but look around. I can’t help but wonder how much of this has to do with judges not being in the region. My pointed doubt remains as to whether someone not immersed in the culture can identify and truly appreciate a Middle Eastern restaurant’s achievements. Do restaurants rooted in typical Michelin fayre benefit from confirmation bias? Do those outside face a steeper climb? Does this compromise the Guide’s credibility as it expands to new markets, like Middle Eastern markets? Something for Qatar to think… (see Reel below).
From Pallavi
Echoing Courtney & Liam, we truly believe TakaHisa is a strong contender to receive a 1 Star. Their consistently high-level cooking hits all the supposed boxes, no question.
But here's my biggest gripe: Dubai's Bib Gourmand awards feel off. We're talking about those hidden gems – biryani joints, chaat stalls, shawarma spots – the kind of places you stumble upon and fall in love with. These are the beating heart of Dubai's food scene, just like Singapore's hawker centers. Yet, they get no love!
Michelin did expand the Bib Gourmand's price range in Dubai, but it still feels tilted towards "casual restaurants" instead of truly budget-friendly eats. It's almost like Dubai's food writers need a wake-up call. We need more voices singing the praises of the street food scene that truly captures Dubai's melting pot of cultures.
Let's talk about the new special awards: Service, Sommelier, Young Chef, and Opening of the Year. Michelin, where's the context? The awards seem wildly polarizing, and it's tough to grasp the criteria for receiving these awards.
And finally, everything Liam said about the Middle Eastern representation, and hoping this changes in the coming years.
If you enjoyed reading this, you can find:
Pallavi Sangtani on Substack or on Instagram.
Courtney Brandt publishes the Weekly A to Z on Substack with restaurant reviews for paid subscribers or find Courtney on Instagram.
Liam Collens on Substack publishes restaurant and travel reviews, runs EatGoSee and can be found at itsliamcollens on Instagram and Threads.
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Lovely to see all three of you that night! Totally agree with the comments on how Jason Atherton brought all the emotions out. And yes, we definitely need more representation of what the city offers from a hidden gems perspective, both within the Bibs and Selected categories. I was pleasantly surprised and loved my experience at DUO when I went, so I'm also very pleased to see it get recognition!