17 Comments
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Sanjay Varman's avatar

I think thats a lot more based view on Middle Child. I found the disproportionately positive response unearned with limited demonstrated goodwill. But you are right in that I did focus on just one out of the three things on offer.

Courtney Brandt's avatar

It is spennier than I imagined it. And while I'm definitely planning a visit, I see myself returning to Piehaus or Lila if in Al Serkal.

Liam Collens's avatar

It haven’t done a sideways price comparison but it might be that with Kokoro and Middle Child, Alserkal is going to price up a bit. I still think you can get two dishes for under 100 and leave satisfied, but it’s not grab and go budget pricing.

Devina Divecha's avatar

Like Courtney said, that is way more expensive that I thought it might be!!!

Plus: your opening line is gold, I cackled out loud - surprising one of my cats who was nearby.

And... you went there for lunch on NYE omggg! I don't know why that caught my attention but hey ho.

Liam Collens's avatar

Even I didn’t remember that I went on NYE! 😆

Liam Collens's avatar

Price wise, we did order two steak dishes and so that has to be a fair point on the bottom line bill. I walked away thinking Alserkal is not a cheap eats place anymore with Kokoro and Middle Child in town. Their neighbours will take note and will probably price up accordingly—especially with some other new entrants now in Alserkal that will go unnamed.

Matt Broderick's avatar

Agreed with the previous comments; I am 18 months into a round-up of great pasta dishes and the one thing that is jarring is the pricing. That is reflected here and it shouldn't be (expensive Al Serkal rents maybe). I still find Al Serkal to be a litany of hurdles (traffic, parking, costs, finding the place you're looking for) and although I love many dear friends in there, it's really tough for me to go.

As for the review, I thoroughly enioyed reading and had a couple of chuckles along the way. I loved this para:

But, exalting Middle Child does it no favours, nor does it leave much room for sensible conversation, which is where restaurants like this are best understood. The fact that it’s the 2026 One to Watch reveals more about MENA 50 Best than it does about Middle Child.

It does seem unfair to go there expecting the world. I'm looking forward to trying it on a quieter day.

Liam Collens's avatar

Alserkal’s barriers are agreed. I go early and leave early, and only on the days when I can. I would take a taxi but then why when I could go somewhere else with parking? 🤷🏽‍♂️ looking forward to the pasta piece!

Matt Broderick's avatar

Exactly that. I go there for friends (Shaw, Carnistore etc.) but parking with children is a must. The valet is sometimes equally difficult.

Haha, as for the pasta piece, so far it's just trying to not add too many puns. It's a bit like when my sister said I couldn't make a car out of spaghetti. You should have seen her face when I drove pasta. (Sorry)

Seriously though, I'm really struggling to find a great bowl of humble pasta that's not overpriced but has a wonderful feeling of freshness and vitality. You probably know more than me, any recommendations? My favourite so far is Akmal's at Funkcoolio.

Liam Collens's avatar

I’ve not been to Polline, but I hear good things. Bigoli was probably the one but it’s now shut.

Matt Broderick's avatar

Yes, Police was very nice and quite well priced. But, like Funkcoolio, you're just craving a glass of red with it. Toto had some good stuff and they have a live Chef's Table in the kitchen where I believe you watch them making pasta etc.

Liam Collens's avatar

It’s probably something like Time Out Market right? Licensed and cheapish

Hani AlMalki's avatar

This is the first time I see “toothsome” being used! Regarding recognition, these things are double edged swords - people are now going to come with very high expectations.

Liam Collens's avatar

I agree with you. I wish Middle Child and Lyn nothing but the best, are they ready, and is it fair to them? This is what I’m trying to seed.

Katy Gillett's avatar

I'd just like to add that you can also find a wonderful selection of curated hot sauces courtesy of House of Habanero on the back shelves :D

Liam Collens's avatar

LOL — say it louder for the people in the back 📢

Maazin's avatar

Hey Liam! I just heard about this resto this morning and Ive been looking for some interesting critical commentary on dubai's food scene for a while now so i'm glad i found your post/blog!