11 Comments
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Andras Jokuti's avatar

Thank you for the great report, I put it on my list, it sounds really great!

Liam Collens's avatar

Worth the journey! Also, it might even be worth staying the night. The alternative is that you could go for lunch but it is a shorter eight course menu, which I failed to mention.

Andras Jokuti's avatar

Oh, that’s a pity, I always prefer lunch, but it needed to be the same menu :(

Courtney Brandt's avatar

Those scallops, tho.

Liam Collens's avatar

I thought of you throughout this course like beam me up Courtney. Scallops and chicken gravy in a mash, essentially.

Dan O'Regan's avatar

I loved reading this, Liam. We had quite a few of the same dishes it seems (I went in January last year).

I adored the root veg dashi. Mind bending stuff.

Really interesting to read your comments on the service. I found the service on my visit to be utterly charming. Very affable, and really quite relaxed given the style of restaurant. Something I appreciated.

Liam Collens's avatar

The root veg dashi was incredible. There were just some blindingly good dishes. On the service, I am holding them to a high standard given the one star and the reputation. We had three servers but mostly two. All of them were pleasant but it was a routine of present the dish, explain the dish and walk off. There was no real personality or flair. Very professional, but to a fault. This could say more about me, but for me, the best service (in these settings) is very well informed, knowledgeable about the dishes, ingredient provenance (and the Osip team had this) but then they engage, talk a bit to you, open up, maybe say what they love about each dish, ask what you thought, tell a funny story about a previous diner or “one time” and engage with each other. Some glimmers of personality. Now not everyone wants that. But great service reads the table. My wife and I are fairly gregarious people so it really won’t take too long to work out that we’re here for a good time and the service should lean into it. A little bit of that is taster’s choice but it is always a good measure to be able to see whether or not the service can find that gear.

Dan O'Regan's avatar

Completely agree. “Great service” is not one size fits all.

Sudi Pigott's avatar

A very good and detailed review which gives a balanced rather than gushing report. I think Merlin does take himself very seriously which is probably reflected in the dining room. The desserts don't sound appealing to me and the prices dizzying. I dread to think what it costs to stay there....

Liam Collens's avatar

Thank you very much. The menu changes quite a bit (seasonal and all that), so maybe better luck on the desserts. As for the rooms, I did look. Weekends are fully booked for the first half of this year, and they range between £320-350 per night but I believe that also includes breakfast the next day. File this under special anniversary treat. Otherwise Babington House (and other places) are relatively close. Just know that Uber does NOT pick up from there.

Shawn Hennessey's avatar

Sounds delightful.