Something for The Weekend #6
August took us to Abu Dhabi, the markets and wine producers of the Algarve and Britain's verdant West Country. September may get jealous.
Hello there! Welcome to Something for the Weekend #6, a periodic newsletter named after an old British euphemism. This newsletter grows every time someone reads, likes, comments, shares and subscribes! Substack tells me there are 1000s reads each month. This account grew 20% since June because you are engaging and sharing. Thank you. If you’ve ever found these helpful, interesting, or just entertaining, please like, subscribe or—better yet—share it with someone else who may enjoy it. Until then, enjoy a little Something for the Weekend.
The alarm blared its siren call at 3.30AM, but I’d long been awake with a restless mind. This was our first escape from Dubai’s blistering summer with a child. It would also be our first long-haul flight as parents with a 9-month-old boy. “Positive. Mental. Attitude.” I muttered ad nauseam, like a séance.
A test trip to Cairo in May sent us signals. Those 3.5 hours were a mixed picture. The sweet relief of a stranger sank in deep on the return leg to Dubai as she took him off us for almost two hours (but always within eyesight, I should add).
This journey would be longer: 8+ hours to Lisbon (economy), plus 3.5 hours by car to the Algarve, plus whatever Humberto Delgado Airport would hold for us. Bottles were sterilised, then filled with water and our hopes.
Would you believe Rufus loved the flight? Probably because his two parents were a trapped captive audience, plus an elevated bassinet from which to entertain a mere few hundred captive passengers. All the world is a stage.
The will to live started slipping between our wet wipe-gripping fingers as rows of Alentejo’s almond trees and arid soils hypnotically whipped past the car about 90 minutes shy of the Algarve (it is a beautiful drive, BTW—as is the train ride. Do it).
Still, light glimmered in the most heartfelt moments. The small mercies of airport staff who recognise two parents-in-training and offer them the sweet relief of priority passes and fast tracks. (Positive. Mental. Attitude.) The kindness of an Emirates flight attendant with two kids of her own who just “got it” and supported us along the way. The lady behind me gave the cashier 20 cents change when I only had €50 note to hand—and a son contorting his way out of my arms with resilient determination. (Thank you again, mystery lady.)
We are not the first parents to travel long-haul with children, but it was our first time. This is travel now. This is life now.
There was a time when Mrs. EatGoSee and I spontaneously dashed to Paris or Muscat as if we had only months to live. Now we run cross-checks on Rufus’ stuff just to go to the supermarket. I’m glad we did those things while we could. Balmy summers in Cuba. Bitter winters in Copenhagen (summer is better). Carnival in both Venice and Trinidad (don’t make me choose).
We will find our rhythm, but I wouldn’t trade him for a thing, especially in those moments with his grandparents orbiting their living room ottoman. Witnessing these moments assuages years of fertility strife.
The last month…was a whirlwind coming back from Bangkok, going to Abu Dhabi, managing things in Dubai and preparing to leave for Portugal and the UK. Here are the highlights and some.
Dipping between Dubai and Abu Dhabi
The St Regis Abu Dhabi staycation kicked off the month with a two-night stay in one of their Grand Deluxe Suites (the room is one of the highlights—together with our butler, Elvis). You can read more about it in this full review below ⬇️
Antonia, Abu Dhabi. An outrageously popular Italian restaurant on Abu Dhabi’s Mamsha Al Saadiyat. Denizens swigging spritz like it’s their paid jobs. Antonia’s, to me, it’s okay. Nothing amazed me, and most dishes were middling. Highlight? The sticky house balsamic vinegar that we requested (and should have come with the Gorgonzola salad).
Stay by Yannick Allenó. One of Dubai’s four two-starred restaurants with decor that looks like Tim Burton was given unrestrained reign to design John Wick 6. The food is capable, expensive, and highly technical, but (mostly) joyless. The service is informed and engaging. Highlight? Head sommelier Danijela Tesic is a class act and 50% of the reason to go.
Tresind Studio x Gucci Osteria. Exquisite dining. Long-time readers know I am all in on Tresind Studio as one of the world’s best restaurants (another Dubai two-star). Gucci Osteria Tokyo also held its own, and I would make the effort to eat there if I ever found myself in Tokyo. (Something I am manifesting here.) Read a full write-up about it below ⬇️
Lila Molino+Cafe, Alserkal Avenue. It is still a standout place for breakfast, lunch, and dinner throughout the day. I recommend the Huevos Rancheros or torta for breakfast and the Enchiladas Suizas with Chicken and salsa verde. I hear on good authority that the empanadas are a must-order for takeaway. (As was the banana cake I brought home for Mrs EatGoSee.)
House of Indonesia, JLT. Tucked away under the car park, turning out punchy, hearty dishes that every neighbourhood should have. I want to eat here more. Thanks to Abigail de Jong for the tip. Highlights? Fried crispy chicken skins and the intensely flavorful Ayam Tangkap Aceh. Note: the service requires patience, and the menu structure should be simpler.
Kooya Filipino Eatery, Dubai Marina. A place that doesn’t get discussed enough as one of Dubai’s better casual restaurants. Maybe because it’s unlicensed? Maybe it is because Filipino food doesn’t get the credit it deserves. Highlights? Kooya should be in the discussion for Dubai’s best-fried chicken. Order the chicken lumpia with shrimp. Try the corn shake.
Mom, I’m famous!
The incomparable Laura Lai Coughlin invited me to her “Dubai’s Best” series on Instagram. 35k views and counting. (What’s with my face?!)
Portugal’s Algarve
As that bright teal horizon where the ocean meets the sky reveals itself after the three-plus-hour drive from Lisbon, a deep satisfaction sets in, knowing I am approaching ‘home’. What is home? I am from Trinidad, but perhaps unknown, my parents live in the Algarve and have done so for years. Home is a fluid concept when you’ve lived outside your home country for most of your life, but where my parents live will always have a home marker.
The sun-drenched Algarve shone brightly as the sun sparkled across the Mediterranean. Mrs. EatGoSee and I took full advantage of visiting some old haunts and tick-off places we told ourselves we would check out properly ‘one day’.
If so, tell me what you’d like to know!
Algarve Highlights
Loulé Market. It’s a bustle of locals vying for the freshest ingredients, especially on Saturdays. Stop for coffee at Bean17 before roaming the market for piri piri sauce, handmade crafts, local honey, and more. Buy fish caught that day and take it home with the vegetables for sale outside. Stalls sell substantial meals from vegan dishes to Pira Cevicheria where I heartily recommend the fish soup, empanadas with cheese and shrimp chased down with one of their excellent Alvarinho wines.
Restaurant 2 Passos. Some days, you want resplendent views with local seafood and a brisk wine to match. Enter 2 Passos (Dois Passos) where, being honest, you pay a lot for what you get because you’re paying for location, but WHAT A LOCATION! Solid food, service and views. Eat the clams, and whole grilled fish. Order the grilled tiger prawns to suck the life out of the heads or just splash everything else with the oil the tiger prawns are cooked in.
Wines&Co, Almancil. Run by Thiago, Wines&Co buys Portuguese wine from small producers and offers them a spotlight. I learned a lot about Portuguese wine, which I’m here to tell you is more than the overpowering stuff that comes out of the Duoro. Book a tasting session on their website in any of their three locations in the Algarve (we went to Almancil). Excellent tasting and well worth it.
England’s West Country
Mrs EatGoSee’s family lives in this pastoral, beautiful British countryside. I want Rufus to have the childhood I enjoyed by visiting family in the UK and establishing those bonds forged as a kid.
Old haunts were revisited; a few new spots were tried. So, I’ve updated my West Country Guides (plus a restaurant review) here:
A local’s restaurant guide to Somerset and Wiltshire (updated)
Sublime seasonal fine dining at Osip, Bruton:
A fabulous vegetarian/vegan eatery, Oak Restaurant, Bath.
Popular sustainable restaurant, Land, in Birmingham.
Wine of the Month.
In keeping with celebrating all things Portuguese, I will highlight the best white, red, and sweet wine I tasted over the last month—all from Wines&Co.
For the red, Quinta da Romaneira Reserva Tinto 2018 with its easy tannins, full-bodied, rich dark fruit, gentle oak and long finish. Think big steaks, roasted duck and lamb. For the white, a Quinta da Sequeira Reserva Branco 2020 (EUR34). For the sweet wine, a white port in a delicious shade of amber.
Me things come up + Dubai dining watchouts
I might take a quick weekend trip away next weekend with a friend to explore somewhere new for both of us (wait and see).
I am writing for a new publication (and I am very, very excited), so I am waiting to see if and when it is published.
Continuing with long-term writing assignments and trying to punch out more reviews and guides from Bangkok.
BOCA launched its new menu, and I can't wait to see what Chef Patricia and the team are cooking.
Hutong Dubai will host Hutong Hong Kong in its DIFC location all of September for an “exclusive four-hands, 8-course menu.”
ROW on 45 launched a new menu after a month-long hiatus over the summer (very smart move; more places should do this.)
Shanghai Me has a new speakeasy lounge called The Bund Lounge. Can it really be a speakeasy if it has an Instagram account, I ask myself?
I write for various publications in the Middle East and Europe. You can subscribe to Liam Collens on Substack or follow me on Instagram, Threads or Facebook.
You've had an incredibly busy summer -- well captured!