You know, sometimes I end up going to more restaurants than I've mentioned in my posts, but if I don't think it's worth going, I just don't mention them... what's the point? You're going to go there and not enjoy it, and then what? Why would you read what I have to say? Of course, account for the fact that food and tastes are subjective - there are a few restaurants that people rave about, and I just don't see (or taste!) what they do. Apart from this subjectivity, I really don't want to send people to bad restaurants haha.
I also ALWAYS mention when I paid for something vs when I didn't, so then it's up to the reader to also take that into consideration.
'Caged battery hens' cracked me up. The pressure to publish X number of stories a day is just...well, I'm just glad I don't work in that space anymore.
I also appreciate chefs and restaurateurs who ask for honest feedback. I want to shout out two (although there are obviously more like this): Kevin Joshi and Troy Payne - they ALWAYS ask for real, honest feedback and I give it. Whether I have comments about tableware, flavours, or service, they take it in good form and appreciate that I merely want them to succeed.
I really enjoyed reading your essay. I just wanted to add that in some countries, local laws around freedom of speech—or the lack thereof—have effectively silenced the traditional food critic. The days when a negative review from someone like Gael Greene could doom a restaurant are long gone. Today, that role is largely filled by food influencers and writers—and as you pointed out, there are often incentives at play that influence what gets written.
Thank you so much Hani and, suffice to say, I agree with you about the freedom of speech and defamation points. In fact, this topic is addressed head on in the final essay of the four. The next one will be about incentives. After that, defamation. Look out! :)
Oh how I love the eloquence and honesty here Liam! I recently went as a plus one with a blogger and every protein brought to the table was just unedible! All 20 food bloggers at the table sat and moaned about how awful it was and then the moment Chef came out and asked for their opinion, everyone gushed and said how amazing it was. I just sat there dumbstruck! I nudged the person I went with and said 'shouldn't we give Chef an honest feedback?' She said yes yes we will and then never did! The restaurant a fine dining Indian place within a 5 star hotel which could easily seat at least 150 pax was empty - and I know why! I just feel like with all this influencing going on, there is no desire on the part of restaurants/chefs to improve the offerings and it's all about quick wins and moving on to the next best. There's lots we can discuss on this, let's go eat dosa and vada one of these days?
I would love to know which restaurant this is, but I have a funny feeling I already know which one it is (possibly 2). And, yes! I would love to eat dosas and vadas! I am coming up for air in May, I think.
No I don't think you would know this, they've been in Dubai 3 years and even I didn't know they were around lol! But yes please let's meet over filter kaapi if nothing else.
As a nobody, if I may add to the conversation. I suppose there is an important answer in the desperation of the venture. It is a business venture which is spun too quickly into existence ad like rising focus on weekend's box office the life time of a restaurant has also seen a demise. Maybe the focus is to herd as many people in and fleece them and your spine might just come in the way of that. Secondly, I always wondered in Top Chef for example what if all the competing chefs are garbage? Imagine the judges rip them all fresh ones. That would entirely kill their audience. I find this relationship inherently challenging.
It's been a long day, unpack the first one a little more? The second I get, but I guess this comes down a bit to integrity and what is the role of the commentator. The food influencer is there to promote, whether it is the venue or themselves. The writer maybe less, but heading that way it seems these days. The critic's role is to analyse and come to a point of view in the interest of the reader. Poor to mediocre gets a very different treatment through all of those lenses because each person has a different incentive system.
Let me take a second stab at it. I just meant that every venture now is almost like a carefully planned con that has to go just right in order for it to pay off for the owner. The fuss is created to make sure max attendance right at the beginning because the next candidate is waiting with a newer iteration with shinier setting. The buzz is instrumental for the con to be pulled off. If there are conflicting voices that threatens the existence. Nobody is on a pursuit to have a successful restaurant for a long time. Just long enough for it to be the green I’d reckon. Much like movies now with just a 30 day window in the cinemas before they come on streaming platforms.
I’d say this is absolutely right for Dubai restaurants. You can feel the difference three months into a restaurant for good and for bad. The hype machine is real. Also PR promotional contracts are often three month durations and that shows. If a place is suffering then you’ll see optimisation in the sourcing and ESPECIALLY the service within the first six months. But yes I agree, it’s like X Factor. If you don’t go number one during the first week of release then it’s like closing time shortly thereafter. It’s an all or nothing approach, and therefore to your point, food influencers are utilised to further the throw everything at it mission.
ALLLLLL of this needed to be said. As someone very active in these spaces, I take an approach that works for me: real reviews for paid subscribers (we love a paywall), and my social media is home to dishes/chefs I actually like. If I do NOT like a dish/restaurant, feedback is given directly to the chef/team (when they ask for it -- they don't always). Also, in my reviews, I can only ask two questions: would I order a dish again? Would I return to this restaurant (based on pricing, etc)? However, I'm not writing for traditional media, so I exist a bit outside. It's difficult post-COVID to want to support an industry but also be constructive.
It's tough all round, and this whole conversation is an animal where you can approach it from many different sides. My focus was to move the conversation passed 'food influencers are dishonest' to we do not create a culture or an environment that rewards honesty. Looking at the food influencing industry like an economist, we need to change the incentive structure in the food influencer industry towards honesty if in fact we value honesty so highly. Otherwise there will just be another piece about 'food influencers do better' that skirts above the issue and does not deal with the issue.
This is an amusing read and sparked my day into life. I, too, have an essay to write on this topic. I find it's more often a lazy trope to verbally or figuratively shake fists at the influencer, writer, and blaggers.
For me, personally, I post with enthusiasm about the places I love. I post with a semi- evident sense of lukewarm for places that are ok but deserve recognition of their efforts. I send private feedback for those that do not meet an acceptable level of competence on that day (made easier by the fact that the restaurant is getting a formal report from my own mystery shopping company worth in excess of AED 1,000). I like to think that I operate with kindness and empathy, but without losing the reader.
I have, however, burned 2 or 3 relationships with my honesty. I'm fine with that. I enjoy working with those that relish the honest feedback. If I burn 2 or 3 more, will I be forced into dishonest posting and writing? Probably.
From the other side of the coin, I've enjoyed working with some of our clients in gauging the impact of some of these relationships. We track my 'influence' through the company and sometimes that of others, and it's clear where some people are letting the side down.
Overall, I think the majority of people are sensible enough to use the signposting that the media brings, and to make their minds up about what's good and what's not. I also receive the same press releases as you and it irks me to see the same lazy rehashes everywhere. But, I get it. Time. Content. Etc.
I'm ending my reply here but I've got so much more to say. The one part of this industry that needles me is food wastage. Now, that's a story.
Thorough! When it comes to food influencers at least in Dubai, I think we know the types that I am talking about. The myopic approach I took was like what I told Courtney: let's move the conversation past 'food influencers are dishonest' to we do not create a culture or an environment that rewards honesty.
I completely agree and that is what we are trying to do with some clients. Conversely, this also extends to the pursuance of awards and lists. Trying to establish what the real footfall is from the PR-driven strategy is key to success. One of our hospitality groups does this very well. I will also say that a dear friend of ours, a certain Mr. Othman fills his restaurants with good food and good people and given that every CFO in town would love a Reif, I think more should follow his model.
There's a whole lesson here in "how to effectively take constructive feedback from people who are just trying to help your restaurant" that I would love to teach.
Haha, indeed. To be fair, I/ we are not always right (don't tell my wife that I admitted that). It's the "I want your feedback" followed by "no, not that feedback" that is an issue.
I've had some really good ones lately where a genuine discussion was had because let's face it, food and hospitality is so incredibly subjective.
How to take feedback is probably something the three of us could write together as a joint piece come to think of it. Advice is only that: take it or leave it but I know MANY a chef whose pursuit of feedback is actually "my ego requires fluffing, please do the needful".
haha, indeed! But, I am the same when I say "please read my article and let me know what you think".
In the back of my mind is always the notion that a chef, an owner, a GM, a server got up that day, went to work, tried their hardest and did their best. I like the mantra that we "assume best intentions" when delivering our own feedback.
What I cannot tolerate is laziness. A couple of weeks ago, I had the misfortune of watching a 'manager' sitting for 80% of service, on his phone, casually draped across the seats, and popping out to see his servers every 20-30 minutes or so. He did not visit any tables, nor did he try to direct any action. This bled into the service team who had a similarly lackadaisical approach to service. The excuses soon follow. Infuriating. Contrast this to the brilliant Francois at folly; who directed everything, orchestrated his team and when they made a mistake (which is always OK), he supported them and charmed the table.
Sorry, got sidetracked there. I am firing our more tangents than a maths professor, today!
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
You know, sometimes I end up going to more restaurants than I've mentioned in my posts, but if I don't think it's worth going, I just don't mention them... what's the point? You're going to go there and not enjoy it, and then what? Why would you read what I have to say? Of course, account for the fact that food and tastes are subjective - there are a few restaurants that people rave about, and I just don't see (or taste!) what they do. Apart from this subjectivity, I really don't want to send people to bad restaurants haha.
I also ALWAYS mention when I paid for something vs when I didn't, so then it's up to the reader to also take that into consideration.
'Caged battery hens' cracked me up. The pressure to publish X number of stories a day is just...well, I'm just glad I don't work in that space anymore.
I also appreciate chefs and restaurateurs who ask for honest feedback. I want to shout out two (although there are obviously more like this): Kevin Joshi and Troy Payne - they ALWAYS ask for real, honest feedback and I give it. Whether I have comments about tableware, flavours, or service, they take it in good form and appreciate that I merely want them to succeed.
Hi Liam,
I really enjoyed reading your essay. I just wanted to add that in some countries, local laws around freedom of speech—or the lack thereof—have effectively silenced the traditional food critic. The days when a negative review from someone like Gael Greene could doom a restaurant are long gone. Today, that role is largely filled by food influencers and writers—and as you pointed out, there are often incentives at play that influence what gets written.
Thank you so much Hani and, suffice to say, I agree with you about the freedom of speech and defamation points. In fact, this topic is addressed head on in the final essay of the four. The next one will be about incentives. After that, defamation. Look out! :)
Oh how I love the eloquence and honesty here Liam! I recently went as a plus one with a blogger and every protein brought to the table was just unedible! All 20 food bloggers at the table sat and moaned about how awful it was and then the moment Chef came out and asked for their opinion, everyone gushed and said how amazing it was. I just sat there dumbstruck! I nudged the person I went with and said 'shouldn't we give Chef an honest feedback?' She said yes yes we will and then never did! The restaurant a fine dining Indian place within a 5 star hotel which could easily seat at least 150 pax was empty - and I know why! I just feel like with all this influencing going on, there is no desire on the part of restaurants/chefs to improve the offerings and it's all about quick wins and moving on to the next best. There's lots we can discuss on this, let's go eat dosa and vada one of these days?
I would love to know which restaurant this is, but I have a funny feeling I already know which one it is (possibly 2). And, yes! I would love to eat dosas and vadas! I am coming up for air in May, I think.
No I don't think you would know this, they've been in Dubai 3 years and even I didn't know they were around lol! But yes please let's meet over filter kaapi if nothing else.
As a nobody, if I may add to the conversation. I suppose there is an important answer in the desperation of the venture. It is a business venture which is spun too quickly into existence ad like rising focus on weekend's box office the life time of a restaurant has also seen a demise. Maybe the focus is to herd as many people in and fleece them and your spine might just come in the way of that. Secondly, I always wondered in Top Chef for example what if all the competing chefs are garbage? Imagine the judges rip them all fresh ones. That would entirely kill their audience. I find this relationship inherently challenging.
It's been a long day, unpack the first one a little more? The second I get, but I guess this comes down a bit to integrity and what is the role of the commentator. The food influencer is there to promote, whether it is the venue or themselves. The writer maybe less, but heading that way it seems these days. The critic's role is to analyse and come to a point of view in the interest of the reader. Poor to mediocre gets a very different treatment through all of those lenses because each person has a different incentive system.
Let me take a second stab at it. I just meant that every venture now is almost like a carefully planned con that has to go just right in order for it to pay off for the owner. The fuss is created to make sure max attendance right at the beginning because the next candidate is waiting with a newer iteration with shinier setting. The buzz is instrumental for the con to be pulled off. If there are conflicting voices that threatens the existence. Nobody is on a pursuit to have a successful restaurant for a long time. Just long enough for it to be the green I’d reckon. Much like movies now with just a 30 day window in the cinemas before they come on streaming platforms.
I’d say this is absolutely right for Dubai restaurants. You can feel the difference three months into a restaurant for good and for bad. The hype machine is real. Also PR promotional contracts are often three month durations and that shows. If a place is suffering then you’ll see optimisation in the sourcing and ESPECIALLY the service within the first six months. But yes I agree, it’s like X Factor. If you don’t go number one during the first week of release then it’s like closing time shortly thereafter. It’s an all or nothing approach, and therefore to your point, food influencers are utilised to further the throw everything at it mission.
ALLLLLL of this needed to be said. As someone very active in these spaces, I take an approach that works for me: real reviews for paid subscribers (we love a paywall), and my social media is home to dishes/chefs I actually like. If I do NOT like a dish/restaurant, feedback is given directly to the chef/team (when they ask for it -- they don't always). Also, in my reviews, I can only ask two questions: would I order a dish again? Would I return to this restaurant (based on pricing, etc)? However, I'm not writing for traditional media, so I exist a bit outside. It's difficult post-COVID to want to support an industry but also be constructive.
It's tough all round, and this whole conversation is an animal where you can approach it from many different sides. My focus was to move the conversation passed 'food influencers are dishonest' to we do not create a culture or an environment that rewards honesty. Looking at the food influencing industry like an economist, we need to change the incentive structure in the food influencer industry towards honesty if in fact we value honesty so highly. Otherwise there will just be another piece about 'food influencers do better' that skirts above the issue and does not deal with the issue.
Morning, Liam!
This is an amusing read and sparked my day into life. I, too, have an essay to write on this topic. I find it's more often a lazy trope to verbally or figuratively shake fists at the influencer, writer, and blaggers.
For me, personally, I post with enthusiasm about the places I love. I post with a semi- evident sense of lukewarm for places that are ok but deserve recognition of their efforts. I send private feedback for those that do not meet an acceptable level of competence on that day (made easier by the fact that the restaurant is getting a formal report from my own mystery shopping company worth in excess of AED 1,000). I like to think that I operate with kindness and empathy, but without losing the reader.
I have, however, burned 2 or 3 relationships with my honesty. I'm fine with that. I enjoy working with those that relish the honest feedback. If I burn 2 or 3 more, will I be forced into dishonest posting and writing? Probably.
From the other side of the coin, I've enjoyed working with some of our clients in gauging the impact of some of these relationships. We track my 'influence' through the company and sometimes that of others, and it's clear where some people are letting the side down.
Overall, I think the majority of people are sensible enough to use the signposting that the media brings, and to make their minds up about what's good and what's not. I also receive the same press releases as you and it irks me to see the same lazy rehashes everywhere. But, I get it. Time. Content. Etc.
I'm ending my reply here but I've got so much more to say. The one part of this industry that needles me is food wastage. Now, that's a story.
Matt
Thorough! When it comes to food influencers at least in Dubai, I think we know the types that I am talking about. The myopic approach I took was like what I told Courtney: let's move the conversation past 'food influencers are dishonest' to we do not create a culture or an environment that rewards honesty.
I completely agree and that is what we are trying to do with some clients. Conversely, this also extends to the pursuance of awards and lists. Trying to establish what the real footfall is from the PR-driven strategy is key to success. One of our hospitality groups does this very well. I will also say that a dear friend of ours, a certain Mr. Othman fills his restaurants with good food and good people and given that every CFO in town would love a Reif, I think more should follow his model.
There's a whole lesson here in "how to effectively take constructive feedback from people who are just trying to help your restaurant" that I would love to teach.
Haha, indeed. To be fair, I/ we are not always right (don't tell my wife that I admitted that). It's the "I want your feedback" followed by "no, not that feedback" that is an issue.
I've had some really good ones lately where a genuine discussion was had because let's face it, food and hospitality is so incredibly subjective.
How to take feedback is probably something the three of us could write together as a joint piece come to think of it. Advice is only that: take it or leave it but I know MANY a chef whose pursuit of feedback is actually "my ego requires fluffing, please do the needful".
When your schedule clears (lol), let's actually do this. I've pitched a sort of version of this to ICCA, but nothing happening just yet.
haha, indeed! But, I am the same when I say "please read my article and let me know what you think".
In the back of my mind is always the notion that a chef, an owner, a GM, a server got up that day, went to work, tried their hardest and did their best. I like the mantra that we "assume best intentions" when delivering our own feedback.
What I cannot tolerate is laziness. A couple of weeks ago, I had the misfortune of watching a 'manager' sitting for 80% of service, on his phone, casually draped across the seats, and popping out to see his servers every 20-30 minutes or so. He did not visit any tables, nor did he try to direct any action. This bled into the service team who had a similarly lackadaisical approach to service. The excuses soon follow. Infuriating. Contrast this to the brilliant Francois at folly; who directed everything, orchestrated his team and when they made a mistake (which is always OK), he supported them and charmed the table.
Sorry, got sidetracked there. I am firing our more tangents than a maths professor, today!