The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024
The winners, the awards, the Las Vegas Strip: does 2024’s list stack up and what are we meant to take from it?
Earlier this week, in an auditorium along the Las Vegas strip, the world’s best chefs, restauranteurs, somms and more assembled to find out who among them would levitate immortal and be crowned The World’s Best Restaurant.
Every year hospitality’s cognoscenti convene in different locations across the world to find out who among them is The Best.
Chef Mitsuharu ‘Micha’ Tsumura of Maido, no 5, World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2024
What is The World’s 50 Best?
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list is published by William Reed, verified by auditors, and judged by slightly more than 1000 anonymous voters who spend a serious amount of time eating out in restaurants. The voting body is divided into chefs, journalists, and bon vivants: people with a near-fetish-level interest in travelling the world and dining out (marvellous!).
An important misnomer is that while it is called The World’s 50 Best Restaurant list, there are actually 100 restaurants divided between a Top 50 (hence 50 Best) and an extended list of 51-100.
The World’s 50 Best is buttressed by regional lists: LATAM 50 Best, Asia 50 Best and MENA’s 50 Best. Notably, there is no Europe, total Africa or North America 50 Best, and perhaps there are good reasons.
Belcanto, Lisbon, no 31, World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2024
The World’s 50 Best Vs Other Awards & Guides
Within us, there live two wolves as there are pros and cons to the World’s 50 Best model, as with anything.
The Pros
The World’s 50 Best celebrates the industry and “the best” of those within it. Cooking is an art and a skill. Those at the zeitgeist of their profession challenge convention and culture plate by plate. Moreover, hospitality is a punishing field where people work double-digit hours as a lifestyle in the pursuit of creating exceptional experiences for others. It is honourable to have these same people recognised and celebrated both for their artistry and their dedication—especially where the industry has faced severe hardship over the last few years.
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List is global in scope, unlike their Michelin and Gault & Millau counterparts who, firstly, are limited to designated geographies, whether they be whole countries, states or even cities. Secondly, Michelin does not deign to bestow itself gratis, free and for nothing. No, no, Michelin must be bought and rights acquired before coming to you. Gault & Millau the same. Therefore, those guides have barriers.
Noma 2.0, Best of the Best, multiple former No 1 Best Restaurant in the World
This global outlook offers a platform for restaurants in corners of the earth where it is harder to get a global spotlight. Places like Bahrain, where Tala Bashmi is recognised and rewarded by MENA 50 Best, a place where Michelin and Gault & Millau are yet to play. In fairness, the regional 50 Best lists are paid for by sponsors such as tourist boards.
This global structure, combined with regional lists, is slowly eroding a Eurocentric bias within the World’s 50 Best List. We are very pleased to see more representation from India, Asia (especially Bangkok), and Latin America. Long may it stay that way.
Representation is also found in the World’s 50 Best Special Awards, which spotlight Female Chefs, Pastry Chefs, Champions of Change, Sustainability, the Art of Hospitality (world-class service), and more. It is clear that Michelin and others are now racing to catch up with these special award categories, cynically, in a bid to stay relevant.
Pallavi and Liam, with Chef Rasmus Monk at Alchemist, No 8, World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2024
Change is rampant within the World’s 50 Best, driven partly by structure. This means restaurants tumble in and out of the list year after year (although some doubt this truly happens, especially at the tippy top.)
Take Middle East’s representation in the World’s 50 Best. Three restaurants were on the 2023 List, with two in the top 50. This year, only two restaurants are on the full 100 list, with only one Middle East restaurant in the top 50 (more on that later).
Disfrutar, Barcelona, No. 1 World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2024
The last point is a simple one: a list of 50 restaurants is easy to understand. Michelin is overly complicated with one to three stars (awarded partly on whether it’s worth getting in the car), green stars, bibs, listed and, until recently, plates. Gault & Millau awards both toques and scores on a 20-point scoring system, including decimals (and, let’s face it, a lot of people are not familiar with Gault & Millau). We cannot begin to tell you how many times we find ourselves clarifying these awards to people. An arithmetic list is more intuitive.
El Chato, Bogota, no 25, World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2024
The Cons
No award system is free from criticism. The main criticism we hear lobbed at The World’s 50 Best takes aim at its credibility, as is often the case with awards. We will highlight just a few points: the voters’ abilities, it’s a popularity contest and that it is a marketing/PR funded list.
For the voters, some argue that Michelin—for all its faults—is at least composed of a judging panel of trained inspectors, many of whom were long-standing industry experts with skilled expertise. These folks assess restaurants against specific criteria (supposedly) only focusing on the food, whereas “W50B” is less structured, less rigorous.
Quintonil, Mexico City, no 7 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant List 2024
Arguably, 50 Best is a popularity contest, like being voted Prom Queen. Popularity here is influenced by factors such as the weighting of the voters. Crucially, the depths of a restaurant’s marketing and PR budget is a material factor that is more likely to influence whether a restaurant lands at no 20 (Wing in Hong Kong) or no 48 (Hiša Franko, Slovenia).
Make no mistake. Some serious money is spent in order for a restaurant to be added to the World’s 50 Best List. It’s obvious why. In a competitive dining market plagued with fine margins and inflation-saturated costs, such accolades nudge diners towards the restaurant with the World’s 50 Best plaque on the wall as a point of differentiation. It’s a business, after all.
Hisa Franko, Slovenia, no 48 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant List 2024
Our View on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List
Nothing in life is perfect, but it strikes us that having The World’s 50 Best List is better than not having one. It adds value to restaurants that may be ineligible for the other awards. It is more dynamic (rightly or wrongly) and feels more future-focused than the other awards. Lastly, there is nothing else quite like it. This is what excites us not just about The World’s 50 Best List, but its regional lists around the world.
Ristorante Lido 84, Italy, no 12 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant List 2024
The World’s 50 Best List looks at more than just the plate, and therefore, it is a better representation of the diner’s total experience. So often, it is the total experience that lingers long in our imaginations.
The annual vote, coupled with a decision to retire the No. 1 Restaurant to a Valhalla known as the “Best of the Best”, complete with fetching purple scarves. This structure accelerates through new talent and, therefore, spotlights more restaurants on a global stage.
Over 15 places across the top 100 are new entries and eight re-entries. That’s 22 spots, or over 20% of the list is new vs last year. Put differently, 22 restaurants dropped out from last year’s list and, like Sisyphus, once the sponsored San Pellegrino water and Gin Mare ran dry on the Las Vegas Strip, each restaurateur will have board flights to São Paulo, Seoul and more to roll up their chef’s whites and fight another day, because tomorrow the work to be on 2025’s list starts anew.
Highlights on 2024’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants list
The Spanish are coming. The Nordics, long held as the doyens of modern cuisine, must stand in awe of the Spanish who claimed five of the 50 spaces and a stunning three of the top five, including the coveted No 1 going to Disfrutar, a trio of chefs who met at El Bulli: one of the most influential restaurants of all time, five-time World’s 50 No 1, a firm Best of the Best hall of famer and—oh yeah—it was in Spain. Adios to fermentations and foraging?
Liam with Chef Dabiz Muñoz of Diverxo, Madrid, no 4, World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2024
The Influence of LATAM and Asia’s 50 Best—and Representation? A significant proportion of the list is occupied by winners in these two regional lists (over 40%), which at least indicates the global opportunity the regional awards can present to local restaurants. Not quite the same can be said for MENA’s 50 Best yet, which is still in its early days. Lastly, there are only two listed restaurants in Africa. Both are in South Africa. Both are in Cape Town. Do we believe there are only two world-class restaurants in all of Africa?
Asador Etxebarri, Bizkaia, no. 2 World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2024
The No. 2 Restaurant Deserves Better. We saw this happen at MENA’s 50 Best. Let’s set the scene: after restaurants 50 to 3 are announced, the final two restaurants are identified, but the order is not known. This is clearly intended to create suspense (as if an entire countdown was insufficient). An announcer then confirms the No. 1 Restaurant in the World, the room goes nuts and No. 2 is forgotten in the moment. It is like a beauty pageant.
This is a travesty for the No. 2 Restaurant.
Keep in mind that every other restaurant in the top 50 is announced individually. The chefs, owners, and their teams stand in the spotlight to auditorium applause, and sometimes, a small team ascends the stage to enjoy a moment of adulation. Their teams back in the restaurant grip smartphones to watch online and embrace each other in the moment. Friends and family—who also often make sacrifices to support their loved ones—watch on with pride at home.
But not the second best restaurant. No. 2 doesn’t get a moment in the room, on camera or on stage. Their families and colleagues don’t see them. They are robbed not only of those moments but of the dignity that such recognition brings.
A List that awards hospitality deftly denies it to the second-best restaurant in the world because, we suppose, the swirl the suspense in announcing the number 1 is preferred.
Again, nothing is perfect, but pun intended, this choice leaves a bad taste in people’s mouths.
To that end, we hope this stops.
Of Dubai: Tresind Studio, Orfali Bros and Ossiano.
Tresind Studio continues its double act of shining a light on the Middle East and showcasing both the brilliance and breadth of Indian cuisine. It is the Best Restaurant in the Middle East (actual title). We know the Gladwellian hours that Chef Himanshu Saini, Vipin Panwar, and the team put in, and we could not be prouder or happier for them as Lucky Number 13 in the World.
Tresind Studio, Dubai, no 13, World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2024
Orfali Bros—MENA 50 Best’s two-time no. 1–now sits at no. 64. It is a Middle Eastern restaurant that challenges presumptions about Middle Eastern food. Three Syrian brothers run it, with Mohamad Orfali as its bright-smiled, spectacled and charismatic figurehead.
Ossiano—MENA 50 Best current no 3—slipped out of this year’s list, but firmly remains on our list of Dubai’s Best Restaurants. Those on 2024’s list should not underestimate Chef Gregoire Berger, his formidable team, the Atlantis Dubai (nor the lure of the aquarium).
Ossiano, Dubai, no 3, MENA’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2024
All three Dubai restaurants slipped down this year. Our view is that this does not matter. A restaurant's true success is measured by the tickets stacked up in the kitchen, the length of the reservation list and the word of mouth on the streets. These three restaurants are the envy of many in Dubai, one of the world’s most competitive cities for dining, already saturated with 14,000 restaurants at last count. Support your local restaurant, whether it is one of these three or any other. Restaurants riddled with accolades will still close if people don’t go and spend money.
Our Favourites in 2024’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants List
Between the three of us, we’ve been lucky enough to dine at over 35% of the 2024 World’s 50 Best Restaurant List, including most of the top five and four of the Best of the Best. Here are our favourites.
Where we overlap:
Tresind Studio, Dubai (13). The storytelling, the creativity and the signature plating stand out in our minds when we come to Tresind Studio. The humility of the team impresses us no matter how many awards they win. We’ve watched this team grow in strength and confidence over the years. There is always something to learn.
Hiša Franko, Slovenia (48). The splendid isolation in rural Slovenia, with green fields and soaring mountains as backdrops to a dainty menu that’s also fiercely locally sourced but looks beyond Slovenia for techniques and inspiration. The juicy pairing is one of the best in the world, with an excellent funky wine pairing menu. You should also lean in and spend the night at the restaurant, not least of all, because of the breakfast served the following day. The details stand out even within the company of the world’s other best restaurants, such as the sustainable uniforms and the store where the team understand that the diner’s experience can last beyond the meal.
Alchemist, Copenhagen (8). This is surely the World’s No. 1 Restaurant in waiting, where chef Rasmus Monk’s clear and provocative cooking stands strong on its own. Yet the message and experience are amplified through your senses with rich storytelling and an immersive dome experience. That’s before we start talking about the ball pit. It is the dinner and a show dining by which all others will be judged.
Alchemist, No 8, World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2024
Pallavi’s favourites.
Gaggan, Bangkok (9). The man, the chef, needs no introduction. His restaurant is a far cry from white tablecloths and conventional fine dining; it's FUN dining at its best. Here, the entire restaurant comes alive with sing-alongs to classics like "Hey Jude" or "I Want It That Way" by the Backstreet Boys. Dishes are often explained in a quirky (almost disturbing?) manner, and while you may not remember every bite, the memories and good times will stick with you long after you've left.
Asador Etxebarri, Bizkaia (2). The foodie pilgrimage, as many call it, and I've been blessed (get it?) enough to make multiple visits. Asador Etxebarri stands as an unrivalled sanctuary for food enthusiasts. Chef Bittor is the master of grilling, with honest cooking where the produce shines in every bite. No dry ice, no truffle, no fancy fluffy additions to dishes - just pure, unadulterated good food.
Disfrutar, Barcelona (1). Disfrutar means to 'enjoy'. The roller coaster of dishes, flavors, and textures challenges every cooking technique you think you knew. Chefs Eduard, Oriole, and Mateu, graduates of the El Bulli hall of fame, have created something magical. Their creativity knows no bounds and their food is a delight for all the senses. It is one of my top dining experiences of all time, and I'm happy to see them receive the recognition they very much deserve.
Courtney’s favourites.
Quintonil, Mexico City (7). Chef Jorge and his wife could not be more generous hosts. Quintonil’s focus on local and traditional elements of Mexican techniques, cuisine, and ingredients is commendable. The sense of team they’ve curated is something rarely seen. It is not an austere, fine dining experience. It is one-of-a-kind, shrouded in storytelling.
Mingles, Seoul (44). I have very fond memories of Mingles as a solo diner, where the service stood out with fastidious attention to detail across the menu. Their growth on the World’s 50 Best list must be fuelled by this exceptional experience.
The Jane, Antwerp (36). We went in the shadow of COVID. The team crushed it where a long dining experience flows quickly with exceptional wine pairings. The music and the flavours are all testaments to the attention of Chef Nick. It blew us all away. When you think of Michelin Guides and restaurants worthy of a special journey, The Jane fondly comes to mind.
Sühring, Bangkok (23). I’ve enjoyed Sühring’s food both in the restaurant and during a collaboration with Tresind Studio. The location is one of the best in the world. It is the kind of place I would want if I created my own 50 Best Restaurant. The team are exceptional and makes you feel exceptional. You wonder where the eggnog dish is going, and then it turns out to be one of the best things you’ll ever have. They stand out in a city that’s already filled with exceptional talent.
Liam’s favourites.
Best of the Best: Geranium, Copenhagen stands as one of the best restaurants I’ve ever had the opportunity to dine in. A simply outstanding restaurant that cuts through trends and gimmicks to serve forward-thinking but classical dishes. A place for which superlatives were invented. Excellent juice and wine pairing.
Lido 84, Gardone Riviera (12). On the shores of Lake Garda lies Lido 84. It could not be any more beautiful sitting in the gardens sipping Franciacorta during a long lunch or inside the teal dining room for dinner. Chef Riccardo Camanini’s pasta and seafood dishes are exceptional (especially the marinda tomato and pistachio-stained fusilloni and bladder-cooked cacio e pepe), but you should come here for the sincere Italian hospitality led by his brother, Giancarlo. Easily one of my top five best restaurant experiences.
Piazza Duomo, Alba (39). Piazza Duomo impresses you in layers. From its prized location in historical Alba to a dining room painted in pale cherry blossom, the joy unfolds over time. Enrico Crippa’s technical ability and dedication to sourcing seasonal ingredients are evident throughout. A first course of multiple salad bowls at the height of their season, burnt lemon risotto, uni with pecorino and tomato paired with some of the world’s best wines made within only a few miles of the restaurant. Be prepared to dine for several hours.
Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler, Brunico (52). I admire Norbert Niederkofler’s staunch Cook The Mountain philosophy, where the kitchen sources hyperlocal (no olive oil!) and uses traditional cooking methods (grills, no sous vide) with delicious results. Chef Mauro Siega is an exceptional talent, together with sommelier Lukas Gerges. Delectable, flavour-forward comfort food like the Wild Garlic Spatzlan with koji zabaglione that lives in my dreams.
Further reading
The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2024
New York Times, Are These Really ‘the World’s 50 Best Restaurants’?
Grub Street, The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List Is Broken
If you enjoyed reading this, you can find:
on Substack or on Instagram. publishes the Weekly A to Z on Substack with restaurant reviews for paid subscribers or find Courtney on Instagram. on Substack publishes restaurant and travel reviews, runs EatGoSee and can be found at itsliamcollens on Instagram and Threads. | A guest post by
|
 | A guest post by
|
The way I see it, The World's Best list provides an alternative ranked view/perspective to the Michelin Guide. For me, I use both as a guiding input when I travel but do my own research on the menu, cost and recent reviews before I eventually make that booking. I've yet to be disappointed by any that I've tried from the World's 50 List, good hit rate so far.